Search your card, look up what it actually sells for raw and graded, then eyeball your own condition against the ladder below. This tool never guesses your card's condition for you — it does the math once you have.
Independent tool. Not affiliated with PSA, BGS/Beckett, CGC, TAG, eBay, or PriceCharting. Fees, tiers, and grading criteria change — figures here are dated snapshots with links to verify. All condition-to-grade odds below are a rough general model, not this card's actual population data.
01
Find the card
Start typing a card name. For Pokémon, Magic, and Yu-Gi-Oh! you'll get real matching printings with images to choose from — pulled live from each game's own database, not guessed — and picking one fills in everything below automatically. Sports cards and other categories don't have a free live database, so those stay typed by hand, with lookup links sitting next to each price field. Everything stays fully editable either way.
02
What it sells for
Pick a card above and the whole table fills itself: the card locks in below with its image, the raw price pulls live from the market, and every company's graded prices start as conservative estimates derived from that raw price. For a quick read, you don't have to type anything. For a card you're serious about, replace the estimates with real sold comps — each company panel has one-click links for exactly that, and anything you enter switches from italic (estimated) to regular (yours).
03
Eyeballing condition
No calipers, no camera — just what to look for and how. These are the same four things every company grades on.
Centering
Hold the card at arm's length under even light and compare the border width on opposite sides — left vs. right on front, then top vs. bottom. Do the same on the back; most companies grade it too, and back centering is often worse. If the borders look identical, you're in great shape. The moment one side is noticeably chunkier, you're already outside the top grade at most companies.
Corners
Check all eight corners (four per side) under strong light, then lightly run a fingertip over each tip. Sharp corners catch the light as one clean point. Worn ones show a tiny pale fray at the tip, or feel rounded instead of pointed. One soft corner among eight is common and often survivable; two or more usually caps the grade hard.
Edges
Tilt the card and sight down each edge like you're aiming down a ruler, rather than looking at it flat. Whitening shows up as tiny pale flecks along the cut edge of the cardboard. It's most visible on cards with dark borders, where the white core underneath has nowhere to hide.
Surface
Use a raking light — a flashlight or lamp held low and to the side, not straight on. Scratches, scuffs, and print lines that are invisible under normal room light jump right out under a raking light. Check both the front and the back; a clean front doesn't mean a clean back.
One thing this tool can't smooth over: creases, bends, stains, water damage, or trimming aren't just "low grade" — they can risk a no-grade or "details" result that pays out far worse than any number below. If you can see or feel any of those, treat the "well-loved" row skeptically and consider it a bigger warning than the table shows.
04
The upside, by condition
Pick your row based on the honest look you just gave the card. Each number is the expected payout after fees and shipping, minus what you'd get selling it raw today. Green means grading tends to win at that condition; red means it doesn't.